The passage between the islets of Marinkovac, Planikovac and Borovac is one of the best-known sailing destinations in the Adriatic. When the tourist season on Hvar begins to buzz, the Pakleni Islands are also busy. Ždrilca fills up every day with dozens of boats, including some pretty big ones. Some carry celebrities, sportsmen and women, Croatian tycoons and their entourages. In August, Ždrilca is full of such people, and since I don’t particular crave their company, I prefer to go there at the beginning of the summer, or in September. Most people come to Ždrilca to enjoy a swim and a meal, in one of the two popular restaurants, Antonio’s (popularly known as Patak’s) and Tri Grede. As you sail in, do not try to use the channel between Planikovac and Borovac, as it is only just over a metre deep. The best place to anchor is at a depth of between 5 and 6 metres in front of Marinkovac, in the sandy bed, where there are several buoys, placed by the restaurant owners. However, if a W wind is blowing, it is safer in the lee of Planikovac, a small island with a thick pine forest. The bura can be dangerous in Ždrilca. If squalls are forecast, you should sail on, unless you are moored to a heavily weighted buoy. Spending the night in Ždrilca is always a special experience, so close to Hvar, Palmižana and other bays, and yet so peaceful. I have done so many times, and in early autumn I put out a couple of long-lines and sail slowly around, catching my evening meal.