Vinogradišće (Pakleni Islands)

Vinogradišće (Pakleni Islands)

Professor Eugen Meneghello built a villa on Sveti Klement in 1906 and surrounded it with a botanical garden, between the bays of Palmižana and Vinogradišće. If he were to return today, and look down on this deep bay from the south side, he would probably cry out in astonishment. What was in his day a haven of peace and quiet, with only the odd fishing boat in sight, is now crowded with dozens of boats at anchor. His grandson Đenko, who spends more than half the year on Sveti Klement, told me that one evening, he counted seventy-eight. But it is partly the fault of the Meneghello family, because during the past hundred years, they have turned their family estate into a real paradise. There are two restaurants, the older bearing the family name, one of the most famous on the Adriatic, in which both the food and the atmosphere, which is a combination of park, salon and gallery, attract many visitors to Vinogradišće. The bay is a little over 800 metres long and provides shelter from all winds except S winds, and you can anchor at a depth of between 5 and 10 metres throughout the bay. The bed is sandy and does not provide good purchase, so you should tie up stern to shore. When you have anchored safely, and if the weather is good, set off and explore Sveti Klement. You can walk to Palmižana Marina, or take the path through the fields to Momić Polje and the village above, which is the only settlement on the island. Further on, towards the west shore, you will pass through areas fragrant with heather and rosemary. Although more than twenty houses have been built in the bay in the past forty years, and there is even a boarding-house, you will not notice them from your boat. They are mostly on the isthmus on the northeast side of the bay, and only a few are on the sea front. I enjoy eating in Novak tavern, right by the sea, as well as in Meneghello restaurant. On your boat, you will not feel surrounded by bathers, who arrive in fairly large numbers on tourist boats from Hvar, or leave their boats in the marina in Palmižana and walk to this bay for a swim. The only real measure of whether the bay is crowded is the number of boats in it. If it reaches twenty, I prefer to move on to another bay on the Pakleni Islands, of which there are, thank goodness, plenty.

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