These bays are sparsely inhabited, and the islands are not particularly pretty, so they are usually bypassed on the route from Primošten, Rogoznica or central Dalmatia to the Kornati islands, fifteen miles away. However, if you arrive late in the afternoon, that is a good reason for sailing in, taking a break, having a swim, and waiting until morning before continuing your journey. If you are travelling from the Kornati islands towards Vis or Šolta, there is still a long way to go, so either of the Stupica bays is a good place to recharge your batteries. You can easily recognise these bays. When sailing from the Kornati islands, before you round Grašnjak Point into Vela Stupica, you will notice the ruins of a building on Kamena Glavica Hill. This is Justinian’s Fort, dating back to the 6th century. The remains of other fortifications and the lookout point of the former Yugoslav Army form an orientation point when approaching from the northeast, from Primošten or Šibenik, in which case, Mala Stupica Bay is nearer. This bay used to be prohibited to sailors. Now it is used by those visiting from Rogoznica or Kremnik, and by the odd fisherman. As its name suggests, it is smaller than Vela Stupica, narrower, and less indented. It provides good shelter from all winds except the jugo. Anchor at a depth of between 5 and 15 metres in the sandy bed, which provides good purchase. Vela Stupica tends to be busier. Its western arm is 10 metres deep, and has always been a safe anchorage. The bed is sandy, and at the base of the bay, by Grašnjak Point and along the north shore, you can anchor at a depth of between 4 and 15 metres. The outer section is much deeper. There are buoys to make things easier, but if they are taken, choose the southwest side during the maestral, and during the bura, anchor in front of the two small arms on the north side. The jugo will rock your boat, even if you are moored to a buoy. Šižgorić’s Tavern, a popular eating-place, is at the base of the bay, with a little waterfront which you can reach by dinghy. Both bays are good for bathing, and if you let down a long line or fish using a rod, the south shore of Žirje is a good spot, particularly around Škrovada, an islet half a mile from Vela Stupica.