Lovište Harbour (Pelješac)

Lovište Harbour (Pelješac)

This spacious bay at the very tip of the peninsula is one of the best, safest anchorages in this area. You will be tempted to sail towards Korčula, from the direction of Hvar or the Makarska Riviera, or in the opposite direction. There used to be only a few houses in the two small villages of Lovište, on the south shore, and Mirce on the northeast shore. Of course, their numbers have been swelled by the new fashion in building holiday homes, and the two villages have now merged into one. Yet the customs and spirit of a small coastal village have been preserved. Lovište is the village harbour and is full of fishing boats, some of which you may meet as they return with their catches early in the morning. There is a bowling alley on the waterfront, two restaurants, several bars and a shop. The area is well known for grey mullet, the most delicious kind of its species, which are caught in late summer. Most visitors drop anchor, as the little jetty in Lovište is occupied by fishing and sand boats. The wide bay is an excellent source of sand. Anchor in the best protected, northwest arm, Runca Cove, at a depth of between 7 and 15 metres, in the sandy bed, which is mostly covered in sea grass, or in front of Mirce, at a depth of just a few metres, in the sandy bed. Only smaller boats will be able to anchor or moor at the base of Runca Cove, and there can be plenty of them about. Larger vessels can anchor in the lee of Ključa peninsula. If you are close to the shore, tie up stern to shore, which is what I often do. This section is sheltered from all winds, and there are no waves, nor the swell which forms when the maestral blows head on to Pelješac, where the bura does not make itself felt much. But the jugo, if it is strong, blows across the peninsula and down the hill, and makes itself felt in Runca. In that case, it is sensible to move and anchor closer to Lovište. If you are at anchor in front of Mirce, watch out for summer squalls. At the height of the nautical season, there can be fifty or more boats here, yet they do not disturb each other. I always enjoy taking the dinghy in the evening to the village half a mile away. The part of the bay you will have to cross to get there is buffeted by the maestral, so you will probably arrive with wet trousers. If you want a good meal, try Barsa restaurant in Lovište, and Jo Dentijera’s restaurant in Mirce is also very good.

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