Čarnjeni (Šćedro)

Čarnjeni (Šćedro)

Although Sćedro is a small island, it has several charming bays. If I want to get away from the “bustle” in Lovišće or Mostir, and have enough time, I sail to the south side of the island, to Čarnjeni and Borova Bays. I usually choose Čarnjeni, because it is better sheltered from the maestral, which can blow hard along this stretch of coastline. I can shelter at the base of this bay, which is 300 metres long, right by the beach, in the shade of the pine trees, or drop anchor in the sand and sea grass in the middle of the bay, at a depth of 10 metres, and tie up stern to shore on the north shore. I come here to swim, scuba dive, eat and often stay the night, unless the jugo is blowing, as both bays are exposed to this wind. Šćedro is a favourite haunt of fishermen, and at the end of August and during September, they use these bays as a base. You may be woken up at dawn by voices and engines starting, but you will also be able to buy fresh fish from them when they return. You can fish around Sćedro using long lines, which is fun, whether or not you have any great success. However, don’t forget you need a recreational fishing licence, as well as equipment and some basic skill. Just east of Čarnjeni is Borova. It takes its name from the pines (bor in Croatian) which reach right down to the sea. At least, they used to. Some were destroyed by fire about twenty years ago, but have been replaced. If the maestral is blowing hard south of Hvar, find shelter in the west arm. In good weather, you can drop anchor in the middle of the bay, in the sandy bed covered with sea grass, at a depth of about 10 metres.

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