Tratica (Kakan)

Tratica (Kakan)

There are many beautiful places to anchor along the islands near Šibenik, but those on the Borovnjak islands, or on the uninhabited island of Kakan, attract me most, perhaps because they remind me a lot of Krknjaši on Veli Drvenik, where I have been many times, for a swim and a good meal prepared by Ivica Špika Komunist. The two islets near Kakan almost enclose Podkućina Bay on the northeast coast, forming a large lagoon, which shimmers in all possible shades of green and blue on a sunny day. The maximum depth in the lagoon is 26 metres, but it is shallow along the shores and suitable for anchoring. It is well sheltered in all weathers, and my favourite spot is by Veliki Borovnjak. The bed is sandy, covered in sea grass in the deeper section. The depth between the two Borovnjak islands is 6.8 metres, and between Veliki Borovnjak and Kakan 4 metres, which might be a little alarming as you sail through, but the depth is more than sufficient, unless you are on a huge yacht or a vessel from the America’s Cup. Ten years ago, buoys were placed in this anchorage, then they disappeared, and this year, 2010, a concession has again been granted, so they should be back again by the spring. The bay is uninhabited, even in summer, and apart from Babalu, the rustic snack bar on the shore, where you can get a good cup of coffee, a drink, or grilled fish, there is not much to do apart from bathe and enjoy the solitude. But this is the charm of the place. In the morning, the odd fishing boat from Kaprije may arrive, so you can buy fresh fish. If you want a taste of civilisation, sail half a mile east, rounding Oštrica Point, where the idyllic bay of Tratica awaits you, with a dozen buoys and a tavern on the shore. If the buoys are all taken, which often happens in summer, drop anchor at a depth of between 3 and 6 metres. You will be well protected from W winds, but not from the bura or jugo. However, the buoys provide safety even in these conditions, though you may be rocked about. You may prefer to sail to Kaprije, just opposite, where you can moor to a buoy or anchor in the sandy bed in front of the peninsula which protects the bay to the south. Be careful not to get in the way of the passenger boat as it manoeuvres on its approach to the pier. This is a genuine island village, where you can enjoy the company of fellow sailors.

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