As you enter this well-known southern Dalmatian anchorage, you are also entering Mljet National Park from the northeast. Polače Harbour, with a village of the same name on the SW shore, is the safest place in the Bay of Mljet, and Rogač Cove, in its western arm, is the safest anchorage. These places were of nautical significance in the past, as borne out by the presence of an ancient anchors on the sea floor, and the remains of a 3rd century Roman summer-house by the waterfront. Where yachts drop anchor today, galleys once anchored. The harbour is sheltered from all winds (apart from a hurricane-force jugo, which does not happen in summer) and looks quite idyllic, with its thick pinewoods reaching to the sea. The harbour is fully three miles long. The uninhabited east side is shelRogać Cove tered by the wooded islands of Kobrav, Tajnik, Moračnik and Ovrat, with the rocks known as Kula and Školjić. The western section, where the village of Polače is located, is indented a mile inland. As you sail in, between Stupe peninsula and Moračnik, watch out for Lengu Point and the shallows in front of it. A pleasant place to swim is in the lee of this point. There are many reasons for coming here. It is one of the most suitable anchorages for large yachts entering Croatian waters from the south, as it is large enough for comfort and safety, and also offers privacy, particularly near the islands. Those with smaller boats can push on to Rogač Cove. The usual repertoire applies – swimming, sunbathing, an evening meal on shore, and a visit to the heart of the national park – the large and small lake and the islet of St. Mary. I like hiring a bicycle to visit the park, which is about three kilometres away. At first, it is all uphill, but after that, it is an easy ride to Solin, the village at the end of the large lake, and it is very pleasant, cycling in the shade of the pines. The trip there and back can take several hours, so it is a good idea to leave one crew member on board. In Rogač Cove, where there are often over 40 boats, you can anchor at a depth of 15 metres, in the silty bed, or tie up stern to shore to two pines and let down about thirty metres of anchor chain. I prefer the latter. The west shore is shallow and rocky, particularly in the middle section. So you should moor to one of the buoys anchored in front of the ruins. The bay is quite safe, if you have anchored properly, so after a swim, take the dinghy to the village, visit the ruins and the basilica, and have a meal in one of the many restaurants open in summer. I have not been particularly impressed with some of them. They are expensive and the service is churlish. Once, they tried to fob me off with ancient frozen fish caught in Morocco. But there are some good ones. The best known are Ankora, Stella Maris and, in particular, Burbon, run by Vicko Sršen. Polače Harbour is so beautiful and provides so many opportunities for anchoring in solitude that it would be a pity not to spend several days here. If you decide to do so, and the winds are gentle, do spend one night at anchor in Tatinica Bay, on Kobrav islet, or in Porat Bay, on Maračnik. In both spots, drop anchor and tie up stern to shore. You will need plenty of anchor chain, as the depth drops to over 20 metres only 40 metres from the shore. Remember that you will also have to pay the entrance fee to the national park if you choose to stay in By Kobrav islet Pomena.