It doesn’t really matter which route I take from Split to Dubrovnik and back, because spending the night in Saplunara, a bay on the southeast shore of Mljet, has become part of my ritual. It is just far enough away from the marina in Komolac, or Gruž Harbour, to make it an ideal anchorage before visiting the old city of Dubrovnik, and on the way back, it is the first natural stopping point. If I am heading for Dubrovnik, it is worth planning a break in Jakljan or Lopud, for a swim, but as I head back, sailing into the headwind of the summer maestral is a special pleasure. Like its neighbour, Limuni, Saplunara Bay is sandy, and for most of us Croats, who are used to the rocky and gravel shores beneath Biokovo and Velebit, fine sand is something of a novelty, and of course, a pleasure. Underwater, the sand is covered in sea grass and provides good purchase, and since the bay is sheltered from the bura and jugo, you can spend the night peacefully, without worry. However, you should watch out for the wind veering to SW, because then it can be dangerous in the bay. During the past few years, a dozen buoys have been anchored, so you will be safe if you are moored to one of them. In the east section, there is a small stone pier, which was formerly used by navy boats. There is a tarmac road, recently finished, which leads to Saplunara, and there is quite a lot of new building. There is also a good family restaurant, Ante’s, where you can get high quality, fresh fish.