Until the marina was built in nearby Piškera, there was talk of building a nautical centre in Lavsa on the Kornati Islands. However, it never actually happened, and Lavsa remains a typical Kornati harbour, one of the best natural shelters on the Kornati Islands, where you can safely stay at anchor overnight. As well as offering shelter to boats, the fertile southern island isthmus has attracted those who tend it today. There is a settlement of a dozen houses, a typically idyllic Kornati scene, with havens, jetties, and boats sitting at anchor. The next logical step was to provide food – there are two restaurants in the bay and one in the little arm at the entrance to the bay. People used to anchor in the shallow, silty floor, at a depth of 3 or 4 metres, so the owners of the nearby houses and restaurants have placed buoys. If the buoys are occupied and there is still room to anchor, there is good purchase. The bay is sheltered from all winds, so you will sleep soundly. And if you decide to eat at Boris’s, Bruno’s or Tedi Juraga’s, don’t worry, relax and enjoy yourself, because no-one will try to breathalyse you between the jetty and your boat. Just take care as you return and get a good grip on the stern rail, so you don’t fall into the sea. In summer Lavsa is busy and there can be up to 30 boats in the bay. That is too many, but nothing can be done about it. It is a little quieter in the small arm on the west side of the entrance to the bay, where there is less shelter from the bura and E winds. Since Lavsa is fully enclosed, and the sea circulation weak, I don’t like swimming here. When I feel in need of refreshment, I get into the dinghy and make for the shore, then walk across the island to Studenjak Cove, with its lovely shingle beach. The view out to sea is soothing. There I can swim in peace, without worrying about whether someone sitting at anchor in Lavsa has just flushed the toilet.