The passage between the islands of Ilovik and Sveti Petar was a well-known anchorage on a major nautical route when this region was under Venetian rule, and even earlier. The sailing ships have disappeared, the merchant fleet has changed its route to the open sea, and the passage between the two islands has been left to sailboats and an increasing number of motor yachts. This is not without reason.
The first and foremost is that the 200 meter wide, nearly one mile long and generally from 5.5 to 8.5 meter deep passage is excellent for anchorage. The sea bottom is sandy, covered in places with grass, and most of the passage is sheltered from every wind. Only a strong south wind (jugo) or the Tramontana can be felt here, which will rock your boat, and when the north wind (bura) is blowing, it is better to anchor beneath Sveti Petar than near Ilovik. The current can also be strong, especially when the wind suddenly changes direction. When the wind goes against the current, the sea is rough.
There are many places in the passage and 60 buoys have been installed, leaving the waterway free. There are moorings at the mole at Ilovik but during the high season it can become too crowded there. All the same, particularly if you are anchored beneath Sveti Petar, you can enjoy waking up in the morning at anchor.
Around eight o’clock, the local bakery’s boat goes around to the vessels and offers hot rolls and croissants, which have an even more tempting flavor when purchased on board, and you will find fresh fish at the four taverns and restaurant in the village. Right by the sea are Stojan Trkulja’s Dalmatinka, or Elza and Željko Stojšić’s Amico where you can eat well in a cheerful atmosphere.
The concessionaire at the anchorage has expanded the services by organizing transportation and short speedboat excursions. Otherwise, Ilovik is a charming little island village with about 60 inhabitants living there year round, who are known as Šampjerini. They have a school, store, post office and bakery, and sailors impart a special timbre during the entire sailing season. They arrive from their boats in dinghies, fill the streets and waterfront, and have something to eat. It is not unlikely that you could encounter a sailing friend.
Sveti Petar, on the other hand, is nearly uninhabited. The Ilovik cemetery is located there as well as the ruins of a Benedictine monastery, which has been partially restored and transformed into a summer residence.
