Although there are several lovely bays suitable for anchoring on the Brijuni Islands, particularly Verige, Kozalac and Soline Bays on the east side of Veliki Brijun, and Gospa Bay on the west, the national park regulations and the protocol associated with the state residences on the islands means that sailing, let alone anchoring, is not permitted, unless you have a special permit. However, you are allowed into one harbour, Sveti Mikula, on Mali Brijun. While Veliki Brijun is a cultivated, well-maintained residential park, visited every day by thousands of tourists, eager for a glimpse of the summer residences used by Kupelweiser, the Austrian industrialist, and Josip Broz Tito, the Communist statesman, Mali Brijun is quite different. At the moment, nobody seems to know quite what to do with it. It used to be of strategic importance, with military forts serving the Austro-Hungarian forces and protecting anchorages in the Fažana Channel and Pula Harbour. In the last decade, it has been handed over to the Ulysses Theatre Company, and comes alive for two months every summer. If you want to visit the theatre by boat, use your dinghy, after anchoring in Sveti Mikula. It will cost you, of course – about 800 kunas for a 43/45 foot boat, and first you must sail into the main port of Brijuni and pay the fee, which is the same for mooring on the waterfront. Then you can drop anchor in front of the new shoreline on Mali Brijun, just before Streto Passage, between the two islands. The anchor will hold well at a depth of between 4 and 12 metres in the silty bed, and you will be sheltered from all winds, so you can safely leave your boat and see the play, or visit Fort Minor. There is some night life too. When the play is over, you can mingle with the actors well into the night, in the improvised bar in the custodian’s house.